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Lawn Care Schedule for Central Texas
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For those who want to do-it themselves, and are in
central Texas.
This schedule is for southern grasses that need some
rejuvenation, including: St.
Augustine, Bermuda and Zoysia
Its what we do, and what you should do too.
FERTILIZE - Avoid feast or famine. Applying the
total years fertilization in two (spring and
fall) feedings is bad, here's why; Fertilizers unable to be used, will simply
wash away into our watersheds, An overabundance of nitrogen
will contribute to many insect and disease problems, such as
Brown Patch and Grub Worms. Apply fertilizers at rates, no higher than
can be used by your specific grass type during the times a
year that they can be completely absorbed. This means
applying no more than one pound of nitrogen per thousand
square foot, per application, always using a slow release
fertilizer during the summer months. (Recommended by Texas A&M as well)
ST. Augustine Grass:
4-5 Total pounds of Nitrogen per thousand square feet,
per year. (reducing to 3/4 pound per thousand if you have a
pre-disposition for disease)
Bermuda Grass: 5-6
Total pounds of Nitrogen per thousand square feet, per year.
(Bermuda loves Nitrogen)
Zoysia Grass: 3-4
Total pounds of Nitrogen per thousand square feet, per year.
(Apply even less during wet years, unless you want Zoysia
Patch)
Late February-Early March - apply a simple 15-5-10
for an early green-up. Most companies that make slow-release
fertilizers also make a mixed release 15-5-10 that provides
for a quick two-week green up as well as a coating that
delays release. I recommend against the use of weed and feed
type products. Weed and feed products are bad for your trees
and shrubs, and bad for the environment, as they are post
emergent herbicides. However, spot
weed-and-feed treatments are can be used for those with
turf-only landscapes or landscapes that have been
established for many years. Warning: Most weed-and-feeds
contain Atrizine which burns roots of young trees and shrubs
and will kill Bermuda grass. They are fatal to several tree
species, including Post Oaks. Atrizine can and will find its
way into our drinking water, and is a big problem. Upon close examination of the
bag, you will note that the manufacturer warns against using
underneath the drip-lines of all shade trees.
Late March-Early April - apply slow-release 3-1-2
ratio fertilizers. with 3% iron and 10% sulfur. The iron
will help keep the lawn green, with the coming rains. The
sulfur will help buffer the pH as well as slow the release
of the product. Sulfur is also a great natural fungicide. (recommended
formulations 19-5-9, 19-4-10, 18-4-6, 15-5-10.)
Late June-Early July - Again apply slow-release 3-1-2
ratio fertilizers, with 3% iron and 10% sulfur.
(recommended formulations 19-5-9, 19-4-10,
18-4-6, 15-5-10.)
June-September - if turfgrass looks yellow
(chlorosis) or necrotic, use an
application of either granular or liquid iron. Once a year
should be enough. If you applied the 3% iron earlier in the
year, as recommended, this should not be happening, unless
environmental issues also exist. Iron needs Nitrogen to
work. often times a fall fertilizer will work at this time.
look for a 5-0-15 ratio with 10% Iron and 20% sulfur. The
Low levels of nitrogen will not encourage fungal issues like
brown patch, while the sulfur will buffer the pH and help
strengthen the lawn against fungal issues.
October-November - apply winterizer formula high in
phosphorus for winter hardiness. Phosphorus helps develop
strong root systems. Ratios vary, but make sure they are
"winter" or "fall" formulas designed for southern grasses.
(examples: 18-6-12, 8-12-16, 10-5-14) Will
make lawns winter-hardy.
*December-January - Apply a
bio-stimulant, with micro-nutrients. The Bio-Stimulant
increases microbial activity, building healthy soil, along
with micro-nutrients. This will give similar results as top
dressing with compost, without the risk of bringing in
disease, insects and weeds. Products such as
Medina Plus or
Milgornite can be found at
local garden centers.
*FUNGICIDE - two times a year, as needed:
July-September - Gray Leaf Spot is a blotchy spot on
the grass blade leafs. (mostly on St.
Augustine lawns) Use fungicides like Kocide
2000, Compass, Revere or Banner. Spot treatment of all lawn
diseases is included in our normal program.
September-October - Brown Patch is best treated with
preventive products. To control the dreaded
Brownpatch
fungal disease (symmetrical brown circles in
the grass) you must prevent it from coming up with a
systemic lawn fungicide with Bayleton, Pro-Star, Banner or
Compass. Spot treatment of active Brown Patch is included in
our normal program.
Preventative treatment is
available at an additional charge.
PRE- EMERGENT HERBICIDE - Two to three times a
year:
(Pre-Emergent controls and prevents weeds)
Early spring and fall are highly recommended. Mid summer,
only if you have an ongoing battle, such as neighbors who
don't care for their lawn, or if you are next to or near an
open field.
Late October-Early November - Use pre-emergent
herbicides, to prevent the weeds that we experience in
February and March. Use Barricade, Deminsion or Pendimethlin
to control both grassy and broadleaf weeds.
*February-March - Use pre-emergent controls to start
the year off right. These products are best applied, prior
to the weeds actually germinating.
May-Early June - One more application of a Barricade,
Dimension or Pendimethlin to control weed through the rest
of the year.
POST- EMERGENT HERBICIDE TREATMENTS - Post
emergent treatment of broadleaf weeds can be made year
around in both St.Augustine and Bermuda Lawns. Products to
use would include Trimec, and Lescogran. Be careful, and
always read the label. Most herbicides are temperature
sensitive. In fact, never use Trimec above 90 degrees.
Grassy weeds are next to impossible to get rid of in St.
Augustine lawns, Post - Emergent. However, they are a breeze
in Bermuda Lawns. Use Products containing MSMA. Never use
MSMA in St Augustine, as it will kill it on contact.
MSMA is for Bermuda and Zosia Grass. It will kill most
grassy weeds, including Dallas Grass and Crab Grass.
Although it is labeled for Yellow Nut Sedge, it generally
will not kill it. Use a product called Manage instead.
Manage is a selective herbicide labeled for sedges only. It
works very well, but is a bit pricey. Manage is available at
an additional charge.
*INSECTICIDES - It is our belief at Real Green, as
a way to be kind to the environment, that you do not put
down insecticides unless you know you have a problem.
However, be prepared during the hot summer months — July
through September — to attack chinch
bug damage. This will show up as irregular shaped spots
in the lawn along the concrete. Any liquid insecticide, like
Permethrin or Cypermethrin, will treat the spot well. Then
apply a granular insecticide like Deltamethrin or granular
Permethrin in a broadcast applicator throughout the rest of
the yard.
*Grub Worms - are
treated in another way, using
Merit (imdecloprid).
This treatment is best left to a professional. Merit will
give season long control. Grub prevention using Merit is available, at
an additional charge.
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